Home Inspection Checklist for Oregon Buyers

The Oregon Home Buyer's Inspection Checklist: What to Look For (and What to Ask)

A home inspection is one of the most important steps in the home buying process. In Oregon's climate — wet winters, occasional ice storms, and significant seasonal temperature swings — homes face specific challenges that buyers need to understand. This checklist will help you get the most out of your inspection.

What a Home Inspection Covers (and What It Doesn't)

A standard home inspection covers the visible, accessible components of the home: structure, roof, exterior, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, and interior. It does not cover:

Sewer line condition (requires a separate sewer scope, $150–$250)

Radon levels (requires a separate radon test, $100–$200)

Oil tank presence or decommissioning (common in older Oregon homes)

Mold testing (requires separate sampling if suspected)

Pest/termite inspection (separate report, $75–$150)

In Oregon, I strongly recommend adding a sewer scope to every inspection. Oregon's older sewer systems and tree root intrusion make sewer issues common and expensive ($5,000–$15,000 to repair).

Oregon-Specific Issues to Watch For

Moisture and water intrusion is the number one issue in Oregon homes. The Willamette Valley averages 40+ inches of rain annually, and homes that aren't properly maintained show it.

Look for:

Staining on ceilings (indicates past or current roof leaks)

Musty odors in crawl spaces or basements (indicates moisture or mold)

Efflorescence (white mineral deposits) on concrete or masonry (indicates water migration)

Soft spots in floors near bathrooms or kitchens (indicates subfloor moisture damage)

Peeling paint on exterior trim (indicates moisture infiltration)

Crawl space condition is critical in Oregon. Most Willamette Valley homes have crawl spaces rather than basements, and they're frequently the source of moisture, pest, and structural issues.

Your inspector should:

Enter and inspect the entire crawl space

Check for standing water or moisture

Inspect the vapor barrier condition

Look for wood rot, pest damage, and structural issues

Check insulation condition

Roof condition is another Oregon priority. The combination of moss, algae, and constant moisture accelerates roof deterioration. A roof that looks fine from the ground may have significant issues.

Ask your inspector:

What is the estimated remaining life of the roof?

Is there evidence of past leaks or repairs?

Are the gutters properly attached and draining away from the foundation?

Oil tanks are a significant issue in older Oregon homes (pre-1970s). Many homes were heated with oil before natural gas became prevalent, and decommissioned tanks may still be buried on the property. An undisclosed or improperly decommissioned tank can be a major liability.

If buying an older home, ask the seller directly about oil tank history and request documentation of any decommissioning.

The Full Inspection Checklist

Exterior:

Roof condition and estimated remaining life

Gutters and downspouts — attached, clear, draining away from foundation

Siding condition — no rot, gaps, or moisture infiltration

Foundation — no significant cracks, settling, or water staining

Grading — ground slopes away from foundation

Driveway and walkways — no major cracks or trip hazards

Deck/patio — structural integrity, no rot, proper ledger attachment

Garage — door operation, fire separation wall, floor condition

Roof:

Shingle condition (curling, missing, granule loss)

Flashing around chimney, skylights, and vents

Ventilation (ridge vents, soffit vents)

Moss/algae presence

Estimated remaining life

Electrical:

Panel age and condition (Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels are safety concerns)

GFCI outlets in kitchen, bathrooms, garage, and exterior

AFCI breakers in bedrooms (required in newer construction)

Grounded outlets throughout

No double-tapped breakers

Adequate amperage for the home (100A minimum, 200A preferred)

Plumbing:

Water pressure (normal range: 40–80 PSI)

Water heater age and condition (typical lifespan: 10–15 years)

Supply line material (copper, PEX, or CPVC are good; galvanized is a concern)

Drain line material and condition

No active leaks under sinks or around fixtures

Sewer scope results

HVAC:

Furnace age and condition (typical lifespan: 15–25 years)

Air conditioning age and condition (if present)

Filter condition

Ductwork condition and insulation

Carbon monoxide detectors present and functional

Fireplace/chimney condition (if applicable)

Interior:

Windows — operation, seals (fogging indicates failed seal), condition

Doors — operation, weatherstripping

Floors — no soft spots, squeaks, or visible damage

Ceilings — no staining or sagging

Walls — no cracks, staining, or signs of moisture

Attic — insulation depth, ventilation, no signs of moisture or pest activity

Crawl Space:

Vapor barrier present and in good condition

No standing water or excessive moisture

No wood rot or pest damage

Insulation condition

Structural members in good condition

After the Inspection: What to Do With the Report

Your inspector will provide a detailed written report, typically 50–100 pages with photos. Here's how to use it:

Categorize issues by severity:

1. Safety hazards (electrical issues, structural concerns, carbon monoxide risks) — address these in negotiations

2. Major defects (failing roof, HVAC at end of life, significant moisture damage) — negotiate repair or price reduction

3. Minor items (normal wear and tear, cosmetic issues) — generally not worth negotiating; budget for these yourself

What to negotiate: Focus on safety hazards and major defects. Asking sellers to fix every item on the inspection report is a common mistake that can derail deals unnecessarily.

What to walk away from: If the inspection reveals major structural issues, significant moisture damage, or problems that would cost more than 10–15% of the purchase price to fix, it may be time to reconsider.

Questions to Ask Your Inspector

What are the most significant issues you found?

What would you fix first if this were your home?

Is there anything you couldn't access or inspect?

What's the estimated remaining life of the roof and HVAC?

Did you see any evidence of past repairs or undisclosed issues?

A good inspector will take time to walk you through their findings in person. I always recommend attending the inspection yourself — it's one of the best ways to learn about your potential new home.

Have questions about the inspection process? I'm happy to walk you through what to expect and recommend trusted local inspectors. Contact me or call (503) 998-7760.

Willamette Valley Real Estate Blog